Pages

Monday, January 19, 2015

surf day


She gave me the gift of California. She returned to me my youth. She indulges my inner girl.

I love this girl. With her, I feel like two girls taking California by storm.

We woke up to a foggy morning and drove to Bolinas. Where I drooled over all the beautiful people. Hot surfer, fit, men, a gaggle of Japanese surfers dressed in the ultimate coolness, sexy surfer chicks with brittle blond hair- dried from the saltwater and sun.

Fog and sun at the same time, making the light an absolute visual seduction of Bolinas, the waves, the people, the beach.

We bobbed out there on our boards, in the frigid pacific, amongst other surfers, all perched like sea birds in the fog. You could see nothing, except occasional peeks of Stinson or the cliffs when the sun came through. She let her imagination run wild, there could be sharks out there and you would never know. They could take you and no one would see through this fog.

We laughed, we paddled, we oogled the crowd, we talked deep, caught waves and fell- limbs and hair and straps tangled in the white water. And loved every minute of it!

This is to be alive. This is to be California. And to have someone be California right there with you, such a treasure.

xx